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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.